Heresy: An opinion or doctrine contrary to dogma. Is it heresy to question the deification of Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia by the fashion and pop-culture faithful? His acolytes are so vast that last season, brands from Juicy Couture to Brioni and Church’s let him have his way with their stuff.
On Tuesday, Gvasalia delivered another interesting Vetements collection, a study of stereotypes. “This season was a bit of an outburst of that kind of fascination with social uniforms and how people dress, dress codes,” he said backstage postshow. “It’s something I always work with, more or less, but then we really decided to emphasize it and to study each look as a separate person, as a character.” To that end, he labeled each player: La Parisienne, Bouncer, Broker, Vagabond, Punk, Pensioner, Secretary, and on through a litany of 36.
Designers have long created characters, but this was different. This was — or felt like — unenhanced reality, his nonmodels genuinely diverse across generations, ethnicities, body types, ages and runway walks. With the exception of the bright green-clad punk with his mile-high spiked tresses and the ghostly bride, most looked not fashion-real, but really-real, as if they’d gotten dressed as they would on any other
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