Grenson shoes
Even the classic wing-tip brogue gets a contemporary makeover in the hands of Tim Little, the…
Jill Newman
Orlebar Brown’s classic Bulldog shorts ($275)
The London-based brand Orlebar Brown (orlebarbrown.com), known for men’s swimwear tailored like…
Jill Newman
The Walmart Foundation is to provide US$3m in grants through its US Manufacturing Innovation Fund to six leading universities to help boost sustainability and innovation in domestic textile manufacturing.
Swedish fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) is stepping up its commitment to responsible sourcing with a new campaign designed to drive garment recycling as part of its mission to create a circular supply chain.
US department store retailer Target Corp is stepping up its commitment to responsible sourcing with a pledge it says will be one of the “most comprehensive in the US retail industry”, designed to drive transparency, proactive chemical management and innovation across all of its owned and national brand consumer products, and operations.
The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety says it has seen “tremendous progress” in the garment industry as it moves into its penultimate year, and that the atmosphere in Dhaka has improved since the terrorist attacks on the country last year.
The Better Cotton Initiative’s global investment vehicle has been awarded EUR2m (US$2.14m) from Germany’s Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) to support its projects around the world.
Ronald van der Kemp said he was inspired by Dadaism for his RVDK label’s fifth demi-couture collection. The resulting lineup of vamped-up, whimsical looks had a strong Eighties bent — with puff sleeves and ruffles galore — but was ultimately a mixed bag of references from Surrealism to speakeasies.
The Amsterdam-based designer — who sources his creations by hunting for remnants of existing fabrics (new or vintage) — this season brought in plaids, spots, furs and floral prints, as well as patchwork quilting and lace. Goat hair details created a spiky halo around an ocelot-printed calfskin top. Swirls of yellow taffeta festooned from a skirt that looked rather like a bowl of Kraft macaroni, while a fisherman’s sweater made from patching together different weaves represented a comparatively subtle look.
Though van der Kemp’s creations are certainly not for wallflowers, the designer has won a certain following with his flamboyant creations. Justin Bieber has been spotted wearing a pair of the brand’s patchwork camo trousers, which are made combining uniforms from different armies. Those pants and several eveningwear looks are among the limited-edition items van der Kemp recently shipped to Bergdorf Goodman, which will stock the brand for the first time this spring.
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Design duo Galia Lahav and Sharon Sever were visibly moved as they took their bow at the end of their first Paris couture show. Indeed, backstage before the show, Sever described being accepted as a guest member on the couture calendar as the culmination of three decades of work for the Tel Aviv, Israel-based label, which is principally known for its bridal designs.
Inspired by the Victorian era in general and more specifically by a little-known designer called Jean-Marjorie Lacroix, who challenged the sartorial stereotypes of the time, Sever explained.
The designers sent out an array of gowns that combined the transparency of tulle fabrics, lace — some of it antique — guipure and sheer stretch fabrics with a multitude of embellishments and surface finishes.
Elaborate, extralong trains were morphed with the corsets of gowns decked with embroideries and glittering with beads and there were high collars, puff sleeves, sweetheart necklines, buttoned backs, peplums and pussy bow details aplenty, contrasting with the overtly sexy allure of their deep V necklines and sheer backs.
The use of velvet on certain designs added a different richness, as on a burgundy draped mermaid dress with its tulle point d’esprit bodice and short cape, or an off-the-shoulder corset
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Known for inventive outerwear, Marianna Rosati’s Italian leather label Drome really hits its stride in colder seasons. Her latest pre-fall lineup emphasized chic shearling, leather and wool statement coats, which were grouped into two disparate themes: military and ladylike. In the former, Rosati interpreted the nylon bomber jacket trend with a maximalist approach, decorating hers with buttery leather snap pockets and white shearling trim. Elsewhere, for something more feminine, Rosati’s sophisticated trenchcoats took on softer silhouettes in shades of burgundy, pink and ivory and were accessorized with contrast leather belts. A few curly shearling coats in bright neons — with exaggerated collars and cuffs — took on a funky Seventies feel. Ditto to the ruffled leather trousers, silk pussy-bow blouses and platform leather boots.
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