Fashion News

Trina Turk started her collection with a moody palette and rich, textured fabrics in mind, working geometric-patterned lace and metallic floral-printed jacquard throughout the lineup. The resulting collection — a juxtaposition of feminine frills and boyish charm — nodded to Turk’s secondary inspiration: the neo-noir films “L.A. Confidential” and “Chinatown.”
Speaking of the latter, it was easy to imagine Faye Dunaway in any of Turk’s looks, from cheeky, polka-dot pussy-bow blouses to the more demure camel trench paired with classic tattersall trousers. Midi-length skirts and dresses winked at elegant Thirties and Forties silhouettes, while Turk’s outerwear — a jacquard bomber and a white faux leather jacket — topped it all off with a dose of modern-day cool.

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Fall marks a season of expansion and experimentation for Rubin Singer. The designer is introducing a sizable collection of evening-inspired ready-to-wear — a natural evolution for his gown-enamored collections.
It’s safe to say his propositions are far from traditional fare. Known for his draping and often dramatic structures, separates took on similar features and a focus on variant corsetry. Take, for example, a red minidress with dramatic sleeves; on the rack alone, it looked like a piece of welded armor with warrior vibes. Or a long gold lamé jumpsuit with a pointed deep-V corset that served as a gateway piece for gown-leaning customers. Perhaps the piece that best fused Singer’s core design codes was a bright green corset top with pleats and a dramatic asymmetrical peplum hem; paired with a ballgown skirt it could be quite stunning, or easily made more grounded with tuxedo pants (of which Singer has a great pair done in a two-tone palette).
Additionally, Singer’s take on feminizing traditional men’s wear items stood as a highlight. A mini tuxedo dress with a built-in corset was a playful, sharply tailored offering.
For loyalists, there were signature silhouettes — most notably a silver lamé bias dress, a bright blue gauze gazar

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Pants are Stephanie Rad’s specialty: She launched her collection last spring when she couldn’t find any that fit the way she liked. For fall, she dove further into the category, offering 18 different trouser silhouettes — from zipper-accented leather skinnies to boyish wide-leg trousers in brushed twill — adding a few chic jumpsuits to the mix. Thin-wale corduroy flares in shades of brown and gray lent the lineup a boyish Seventies vibe, while other styles featured sheer cutouts and front-slit hemlines.
Rad complemented her looks with silk and velvet bodysuits and tailored baseball shirts, the latter a nod to her grandfather; Rad was recently rummaging through his closet when she stumbled upon a few of his vintage single-pocket short-sleeve shirts and racetrack jackets. Here, she reimagined a few of his wardrobe staples in luxe fabrics; it especially worked on an oversize silk bomber with a deep V neckline. “I wanted to incorporate the masculine pieces in a feminine way that woman would find approachable,” she said.

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A trip to Costa Rica and a viewing of the Seventies anime film “Belladonna of Sadness” sparked a period of self-discovery in Raquel Allegra.
Though originating from different ends of the world, the Central American adventure and the animation from Japan came together in the warm colors and earthy vibe of her carefree fall collection.
“We saw so many things that we related to in the film,” said the designer, before the start of her presentation that was also billed as a dance party in her eight-month-old store in Los Angeles. “Their watercolors reminded us of the way we work with tie-dye.” She also empathized with the anime heroine, whom she said is “connected to the earth, going through her own trials and is discovering herself as a woman.”
Allegra went through a similar phase in Costa Rica. “It started with a recharge and ended with total self-discovery,” she said. So uplifted by that positive feeling, she named her collection “Pura Vida,” translated from Spanish as “pure life,” and made an art film with Margo Ducharme and Nicholas Trikonis on the beaches in the tropical country.
She also injected new silhouettes and fabrics into her designs. Ivory silk rayon was burned out to resemble

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Has L.A. managed to flip the script and become a fashion show city at long last?
Independently of one other, a handful of designers who normally show at New York Fashion Week elected to mount events here instead, shining an even brighter spotlight on the City of Angels during an already buzzy time, with the Grammy Awards this weekend and the Oscars around the corner.
Certainly, five events over five days — Rebecca Minkoff on Saturday, Raquel Allegra and Rachel Zoe on Monday, Rachel Comey on Tuesday and the grand finale of Tommy Hilfiger tonight — are a mere drop in the New York bucket of more than 150 official shows. But the micro trend ensures that they’re each getting maximum attention before the New York Fashion Week onslaught.
“I think the cluster of designers showing in L.A. is a nice coincidence that puts another spotlight on L.A. and the interest fashion has in what’s happening in the city in terms of art and culture. That has been something we’ve seen for a while now,” said Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

Rebecca Minkoff and Aimee Song at the close of her L.A. runway show at The

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PARIS — From a threadbare Norwegian sweater repaired with white yarn to a Japanese bowl made from glass and copper oxide, the inaugural edition of the Loewe Craft Prize spotlights handmade items from across the globe in a celebration of the human touch.
The brainchild of Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson, the prize launched by the Loewe Foundation in April 2016 drew close to 4,000 submissions from more than 75 countries.
Loewe today announced the 26 finalists, and the winner — to be revealed on April 10 — will walk away with 50,000 euros, or $53,500 at current exchange rates. The list includes entries from as far afield as China, South Korea, Japan, Mexico, Australia, Bangladesh, Argentina, Canada and the U.K..
“I’ve never done something where I’ve felt it’s so rewarding,” Anderson said. “It’s been very difficult to edit the people down. We wanted to make sure that we had an incredibly good cross-section of the globe.”
A collector of everything from ceramics and textiles to silverware and woodwork, the designer said he wanted to launch the prize since joining Loewe in 2013 as part of his vision for the Spanish house, which is controlled by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. “It’s this idea that we employ

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Sac du Jour: Cushnie et Ochs will launch bags for fall. The near-decade-old label will release five styles down its runway on Friday.
“It’s something we’ve always wanted to do — it’s been in works for a bit now. With our investment, we were able to get the ball rolling,” cofounder Carly Cushnie said of the brand’s minority investment by Farol Asset Management in late 2015.
Prices will range from $595 for a clutch to $1,595 for a tote bag. The label hopes its bags will grab the attention of steadfast ready-to-wear stockists such as Neiman Marcus.
The collection will be produced in Italy. It features the same razor-sharp lines as the label’s body-conscious rtw.
Said cofounder Michelle Ochs: “When we design, we think of a head-to-toe look. We wanted [the bags] to live side-by-side with our clothes wherever we sell.”
Added Cushnie: “For us, it’s something we’ve wanted to be able to do — own the whole look. Shoes are also in the pipeline. We have a unique perspective as female designers, to make a handbag that someone would want to wear every day.”

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ATH-LEISURE OFFERING: Missoni has created an activewear capsule range for Mytheresa.com which launches on Thursday, WWD has learned.
The collection takes its cue from Jennifer Missoni — an actress, yoga advocate, daughter of Luca Missoni, and niece of Angela Missoni, the company’s creative director.
The Missoni x Mytheresa.com six-piece range, designed by Angela Missoni, consists of a cropped cardigan, a top, leggings, a jumpsuit, a halter neck bra and trousers — all done in the Italian house’s signature patterns. This is the first time the Italian brand has partnered with the e-tailer on an ath-leisure collection, a project that’s in line with Mytheresa’s plan to amp up its athleticwear offer on the site.
Prices range from 280 euros, or $299, for a halter neck bra to 670 euros, or $716, for a crossover jumpsuit. It will be sold on Mytheresa.com exclusively.
In addition to serving as muse for the range, Missoni will feature in a short film as well as in yoga video tutorials. Everything has been filmed in a villa north of Milan. The videos will run across the e-tailer’s social media platforms and web site.
“There is a trend in activewear,” said Angela Missoni. “And as I felt this part of the wardrobe

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From “strength” to “seductive glamour,” designers reveal their creative muses for fall.

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Phoebe Neuman