Fashion News

Audra RTW Fall 2017

Audra Noyes had a most fortuitous route to New York, where she presented her collection for the first time. Having interned with Alber Elbaz at Lanvin and at Dior in Paris (John Galliano was dismissed, she noted, her first day at the house), she has honed her own aesthetic for her Audra collection, making her main mantra to let the refinement of pattern-making and her fabrics tell the story of her softly sophisticated lineup. “I have a passion for craft and detail,” said Noyes, who gives “the same importance to the inside of a dress as I give to the beauty of what’s visible.”
And what’s visible is the way in which she shapes precious fabrics with the ease and details of workwear.
Accordingly, Noyes took an Army green plaid viscose and cut it as an easy midcalf dress that was ruched with drawstring sides, and showed it under a houndstooth coat. She likes her dresses midcalf, fitted at the waist and flared at the hem. Many of these — some in men’s wear fabrics, others in embroidered gazars, crushed velvet or metallic chiffons — were shown over tailored, cropped pants. The same pants surfaced in a men’s suiting with a matching glen

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09.02.2017No comments
Whit RTW Fall 2017

Whitney Pozgay was inspired by Asian art and fashion from the 1800’s to the mid-1900’s for fall. She seamlessly blended the charm and softness of Japanese landscape-printed silk shirts with sturdy French workwear shapes. “I like the drier hand of Japanese fabrics mixed with the silks,” the designer said. But this was more than just a texture mash-up for Pozgay, who likes her layers for winter days. Accordingly, she showed wrapped and tied jumpsuits, wool or quilted indigo denim, low-back aprons in wool tweed with ribbon straps, jumpers in fine horizontal cotton or cashmere corduroys — all over a painterly collection of silk shirts. There are simple, knee-length dresses here, too. One beauty was a simple, slender  silhouette, shown in a bold, painted bird print in rust and black velvet. Pozgay continues to expand her fashion repertoire as well as develop a deft hand with each new niche.

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M. Martin RTW Fall 2017

Alex Gilbert and Jennifer Noyes believe in empowering women through a functional, stylish wardrobe — so it’s no surprise that in this heated political climate, they’ve had a lot of inspiration from which to draw. “We were inspired by our strong women, by our mothers,” said Gilbert, pointing to a wall covered in photos of iconic women.
All of which brought them to think about the suit. “Suits as a story and as something in your closet that has the ability to be practical, strong, empowering, versatile and easy — because for us, it’s always about being effortless,” Gilbert said. Therefore, they proposed updated versions of the staple, like a velvet option, a double-breasted corduroy, a belted (optional) crepe, and evening suit, among others. And, keeping with the practicality theme, all could be combined with most other pieces in their collection. “It’s really a wardrobe approach,” said Noyes, highlighting core pieces offered year-round such as essential knits, pajama dressing, key shirting and robe coats.

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09.02.2017No comments
Gary Graham RTW Fall 2017

In working with the Rhode Island Historical Society, designer Gary Graham was entranced by a sense of gothic revival seen at a Victorian home in Warwick, R.I. Its original owner, Elizabeth Slater, came from a lineage of textile families, and served as this charming collection’s lead character.
Graham translated varying motifs from the home, literally, as in superimposed wallpaper and sofa prints, and in theory. He name-checked Helena Bonham Carter as co-conspirator in creating a character study of Slater — and more relevant for fashion’s sake, how she would dress in modern times.
Cue the period-influenced dressing that stands as a hallmark of Graham’s aesthetic. Though silhouettes skew historical in feeling, key to his modern vision is how pieces are layered together to create a visually perplexing wardrobe of dynamism and texture. Not only did an army gray wallpaper floral appear on layered dresses and jersey tops, but hinges found inside the home also found their way as literal and abstract embroidery details on tops and coats with rustic beading. Of the coats, many featured dyed, worn-in treatments and patchwork construction. The beaded metal, as well, was woven throughout, as detailing on easy evening dresses and completely over a bolero. Everything was

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Tisci at Versace: Retailers Swoon as Deal Said Done

Can we have some, please? That’s the reaction of retailers to Riccardo Tisci‘s widely anticipated appointment as creative director of Versace.
According to market sources, the ink is dry on the employment agreement, but an announcement isn’t expected before the fashion house’s February 24 show in Milan. Creative director Donatella Versace is reportedly banning backstage interviews before and after the show to make sure she won’t have to field questions about Tisci.
As reported, Versace held discussions with Tisci for months, according to sources. Tisci, who left his role as artistic director of Givenchy last week, is said to be taking a vacation. Versace on Wednesday reiterated its boilerplate of not commenting on rumors and speculation.
But retailers already are enthusiastic even without official confirmation. Using words such as “visionary” and “influential,” they gushed about the effect Tisci’s singular aesthetic and social media prowess could have on the Versace brand. Given Tisci’s success in transforming Givenchy, it’s understandable that retailers would want in on his next act; Givenchy grew six-fold during Tisci’s 12-year tenure at the Paris-based house, with revenues now estimated at more than 500 million euros, or $535 million at current exchange.
“We don’t carry Versace, but I absolutely love Riccardo,” said Jeffrey Kalinsky, designer fashion director of Nordstrom and founder of Jeffrey New York. “If I were asked if I’d

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Funding Growth: Victoria Beckham Said Seeking Minority Investor

LONDON — It’s only February and the year is already shaping up to be a landmark one for Victoria Beckham, with a second Estée Lauder collection, a royal honor at Buckingham Palace and a possible new minority investor in Victoria Beckham Ltd.
According to industry sources, Beckham and her business partner Simon Fuller have been searching for a minority investor since last year with an eye to building out the brand’s retail network internationally.
The top suitor looks to be L Catterton, which is said to be conducting due diligence on Beckham’s London-based company. Spokespeople for L Catterton and Victoria Beckham declined to comment, as did Beckham herself when asked.
Investment sources said a book on the company had been circulating since last year, with Beckham and Fuller meeting a variety of potential candidates.
L Catterton, which was formed in 2016 after LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s investment arm L Capital joined with the private equity firm Catterton, would have the financial muscle — and the patience — to extend Beckham’s retail network.
L Catterton has $15 billion under management, investments in more than 80 companies, and is looking to plow its funds into areas of the market that are expanding. Beckham has just two standalone

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London Label Vin + Omi Teams With Michelle Violy Harper on a Capsule Collection

CREATIVE COLLABORATION: London label Vin + Omi has teamed with Michelle Violy Harper on a capsule collection, which will debut on Feb. 20 during London Fashion Week, WWD has learned.
“I was drawn to their work because they push boundaries,” Harper said. “They are able to explore and translate not only concepts but also feelings. For that reason, I chose to work closely with them to create the collection which presents something outside the ordinary and something that matters greatly to me. I do not feel we need more of the same and I believe the collection proves that there is more to offer and through clothes one can ignite a compelling conversation.”
The collaboration between the designers and Harper came about through a shared affinity for all things avant-garde. The New York-based founder and chief executive officer of OWTH LLC, a consultancy firm, and cofounder of cosmetic company CB LLC was a muse for the duo. “Michelle is one of the most enduring fashion icons in the world,” Omi said. “We work closely with great music and film icons such as Debbie Harry and we have wanted to work with Michelle for a while. She is always on point and has

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09.02.2017No comments
Special Fashion Week Content Delivered Through Google Search

For the second season in a row, Google is getting friendlier with fashion week, but the focus this time is more on content and less on commerce.
This season, designers and brands including Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Burberry, Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and others have signed on to post fashion week content directly to Google Search during fashion shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
In a feature that was piloted during New York Fashion Week last season, designers will share information before, during and after the shows. Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera and Proenza Schouler have already started sharing content.
Google is scrapping any shoppable elements in the Search feature to focus on what it found to be the most useful tools. This go around, the search giant has added a partnership with Launchmetrics and GPS Radar to show runway photos in real-time. Additional fashion week content — which appears when users type “Fashion Week” or a related topic into Google Search — includes street style and party photos from photo agency BFA.
In September, Google unveiled the first iteration of this feature, for which it commissioned former Maxim editor Kate Lanphear to act as consultant. Lanphear also worked on the project this season.
The first

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