It’s still a man’s world — sort of — and for their pre-fall women’s lines, designers drew from the sartorial flair of traditional men’s wear fabrics like Prince of Wales, shepherd checks, tartans, plaids and pinstripes.
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Tom Ford is on a roll with new categories. Next up: undies. A week after he revealed his new luxury watch partnership with Tom Kartsotis’ Bedrock Manufacturing Co., Ford has revealed that he’s getting into underwear — men’s only to start. It will be done through a license with the Italian manufacturing firm Albisetti International.
Confirming WWD’s initial report in December that underwear was on Ford’s radar, the designer said in a statement: “The creation of Tom Ford Men’s Underwear is a natural extension of our highly successful men’s collection and comes at a time when the Tom Ford brand has become firmly established worldwide as a leader in men’s fashion. Albisetti International is the perfect partner for this venture as their dedication to excellence and the highest quality product is impressive and their strong family work ethic makes them a perfect fit as our partners.”
In 2011, Albisetti bought Ittierre, the Italian manufacturing company that was part of IT Holding SpA group, after two years of government-backed bankruptcy protection. Albisetti is operated by brothers Alessandro and Tommaso Bianchi. Their father, Antonio, was formerly head of Albisetti and Ittierre, which at one point produced the C’N’C Costume National, Galliano, Ermanno Ermanno Scervino
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The Council of Fashion Designers of America has joined forces with Planned Parenthood to launch Fashion Stands With Planned Parenthood, an initiative that capitalizes on New York Fashion Week’s global reach to raise awareness and funds for Planned Parenthood’s efforts.
Under the Trump administration, politicians are taking steps to defund Planned Parenthood health centers. Should that occur, millions of people — nearly half of whom are people of color and many who live in rural areas — would lose the care they rely on. To address the urgency of the situation, the CFDA has created a pink pin for CFDA members and supporters to use during their fashion week shows and presentations. Designed by The Creative Group, Condé Nast, the pin has been distributed to all participating designers; public relations, modeling agencies and creative; fashion week locations; industry influencers, and press attending New York Fashion Week from Feb. 9 to 16.
The CFDA worked with Tracy Reese, one of its board members, to encourage designers to wear the pin when they take their bow and place it on one or more models in their show, and distribute them to all front row attendees, as well as their front-of-house staff. More than 40
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For Pharrell Williams’ first collection for G-Star Raw since assuming the title of head of imagination and co-owner, he focused on printed denim. The lineup is called G-Star Elwood X25 and consists of men’s and women’s Elwood jeans in 25 different prints. One example is the bright red plaid print, which Williams models himself alongside Dutch model Marte Mei van Haaster in the collection’s campaign.
Williams wanted to focus on a wide array of prints because “what’s most important right now is individuality.”
The jeans are designed using G-Star’s 3-D technology. The campaign was conceived by Ronnie Cooke Newhouse, shot by Lukas Wassmann
and styled by Mel Ottenberg. A behind-the-scenes video by Mark Lebon
is is also part of it. The collection launches Monday at Dover Street Market in London, and Colette in Paris with a limited selection of prints. The full 25 prints will be available globally Feb. 16 in stores and online.
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He’s so modest.
#Goals
Who doesn’t like a good party?
Designer Thaddeus O’Neil provided just that during his fall presentation, offering up a clash of disco and punk subculture with a dash of sartorial.
“It’s baroque disco punk meets Golden Voyager record,” the designer said backstage in summarizing his collection, which was inspired by the album “Music From Earth” that NASA included as part of a time capsule on Voyager spacecraft in 1977. The record, which included cuts ranging from Bach to Chuck Berry, spoke to the designer and influenced his offering for the season.
As a result, O’Neil’s lineup included metallic bomber jackets, coats that would button up completely to resemble flight suits and faux fur shorts, all very reminiscent of the late-Seventies time period. A suede shirt with a wave graphic on the back — O’Neil is an avid surfer — along with tube socks, were embellished with Swarovski crystals. In addition to collaborating with Swarovski, O’Neil worked with Vans on an assortment of sneakers that he spray painted either silver or gold and, in some cases, added roller skate bottoms, which helped contribute to the roller-disco atmosphere at the show.
Additionally O’Neil presented one see-now-buy-now look that was well in tune with his offering.
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Assembly New York once again delivered clean lines and proportions for its fall collection as designer Greg Armas looked to the label’s past seasons and the current market to identity what the New York-based brand represents.
“It was meant to be reactive,” said Armas.
The lineup consisted of wool-blended cashmere car coats, quilted bombers, boxy cropped jackets, service striped trousers that resembled those of Fed-Ex workers, and a super-relaxed leather and suede parka paired with wide-leg sweatpants. But Armas also looked outside New York for inspiration, offering a few Japanese influences on tops, including the Japanese character number 1 on a red knit and a subtle in-yo (yin and yang symbol) on the back of the bomber. Looks were paired with Doc Martens shoes.
Outerwear remained a strong suit for the brand, which turned to interesting hardware details such as fireman closures on a fitted peacoat, removable leather buttons for the car coats and heavy gold extra-large zippers for the parka to enhance the silhouette and up its cool quotient.
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The spring collection Rebecca Minkoff sent down the brick road at The Grove in Los Angeles on Saturday, for her third see-now-buy-now runway show (or what she refers to as see-buy-wear), might not be entirely new to editors and buyers who saw her low-key presentation in New York last September. But brought to life on models, actresses and digital influencers, this collection was made to spark immediate shopping.
Minkoff said before the show that the collection was inspired by her California roots — she’s a San Diego native. “It’s just easy, effortless kind of beauty. A lot of color, a lot of different floral prints. A lot of ruffles,” she said.
The feminine and floaty printed viscose dresses that opened the show weren’t reinventing the wheel — shoulder-baring, bohemian-inspired dresses are by now standard fare in the contemporary market — but Minkoff’s was a pretty and appealing take. No doubt seeing Aimee Song and Chriselle Lim wearing the dresses also convinced their legions of followers to want one, too.
She also offered her version of the white cotton and lace frocks popular for Mexican resorts and music festivals; cute denim overalls and wide-leg jeans; graphic sweatshirts and Ts, and some leather and suede jackets
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The day after Barneys New York named Daniella Vitale its first-ever female chief executive officer, the store launched a new campaign devoted to women’s empowerment. Titled “We Will Be,” the initiative is done through the Barneys New York Foundation, the retailer’s charitable arm that was founded in 2016 as a way for the store to advocate for human rights, the arts and education. For the campaign, Barneys commissioned videos done in partnership with the High School of Fashion Industries and MAKERS, a women’s media platform, that highlight strong women. They were installed Feb. 3 in Barneys’ Madison Avenue and downtown New York windows to coincide with New York Fashion Week.
The timing could not be more apt, considering the heightened cultural focus on the protection of women’s rights under the Trump administration and the arrival of Vitale as the store’s first female ceo. The initiative was her idea.
“Back in November, with such a negative and divisive tone in the world we felt we needed to kick off the year with a message of inclusion, diversity and women’s empowerment,” Vitale said. “With a group of us sitting around talking about how women in general had been treated so poorly during the campaign
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