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Alessandro Dell’Acqua cited the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Deneuve in the iconic film “Belle de Jour” to summarize the attitude he injected into his chic Rochas pre-fall collection (one prepared long before the French actress stirred a storm of controversy over her comments regarding sexual harassment, for which she later apologized).
A precise, vertical silhouette defined the lineup, where polished collarless coats worn with midi skirts were juxtaposed against mannish suits paired with sporty logo turtlenecks and oversized furry shearling coats.
Mannish fabrics were cut into hyper-feminine long vests and flared skirts infused with a charming yet subtle elegance, while a shimmering textured silver brocade was used in a lovely evening dress with a sweetheart neck.
While the collection was strong on solid outfits, Sixties graphic motifs were rendered in jacquard patterns on a pencil skirt with a sensual front slit, as well as in prints splashed on silk shirts and fluid open-back gowns.
Everything exuded a sense of discreet luxury, which perfectly fits the heritage of the Parisian brand.

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The team at Ralph Lauren knows what it’s doing when it comes to castings: Models at the brand’s grand palazzo had matinee idol looks, with more square jaws per square foot than in any other showroom — or runway — in Milan.
Dressed in the fall collection’s clothes, they had a cinematic look, as if they were extras plucked from the party scenes in “Downton Abbey,” or even “The Crown,” what with all the military tailoring and shiny buttons and buckles.
It was a handsome collection — if a bit too literal in its military references — and hit all the right moments — evening, great outdoors, seaside and city. There were velvet collars and tartan cashmere suits for evening reels in Scottish stately homes, dark jackets with frogging and a naval officer jacket, complete with a buckled belt.
More military references popped up as red chevrons on the sleeves of a navy peacoat while a greatcoat came with epaulettes and shiny brass buttons. Sturdy sweaters had buttons running down the shoulder or toggles at the front, while trousers flashed with anchor belt buckles. An aviator-style shearling added another layer of military reference.
Suits were done in suede — an olive one was particularly nice

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Oh, the comfort! Tomas Maier melded references from the great outdoors and the city streets for this laid-back collection, which was packed with lumberjack and tartan checks, cashmere, corduroy and gray flannel.
“As always, the idea of casual and ease and a notion of escape set the tone for the collection,” said Maier, adding that he was also going for a strong visual impact with graphic, colorful patterns that he wanted to mix and mismatch.
Ease was the big word here, and came in the form of a gray flannel bomber with soft eco-leather black sleeves, wool cargo pants and lightweight corduroy trousers with an elasticized waistband. How comfy for that 14-hour flight from New York to Tokyo, or a sofa supper with Netflix.
Knitwear was sharp and colorful and featured a sweater in faded red with buttons tracking down the shoulder, a coral cashmere crewneck and a snow-white turtleneck.
Pattern came via quilted jackets, a plaid peacoat and a black-and-blue lumberjack check shirt, which Maier paired with white corduroy trousers in a fine match of country and city.

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BELLE AND BOLLE: Too bad Roberto Bolle couldn’t do one of his Grand Jetés at Tod’s chaotic presentation, held once again at the exquisite Villa Necchi in Milan. The Italian ballet star was literally squeezed between buyers, the press and TV cameras trying to see the new men’s collection — not to mention hordes of revelers sipping the free drinks and nibbling the canapés — with almost no room to breathe, let alone dance. Ever the pro, Bolle took the sardine-like conditions in stride and calmly and politely talked about the shoot of Tod’s spring campaign in Malibu, Calif., with Kendall Jenner, as images from the video were projected at the entrance. Jenner opened and closed Tod’s women’s spring runway show in September.
“It was fun and a pleasant break from a very intense period. It gave me a breather from the hours of training and tension, an escape from the daily sacrifice and sweat theater life requires,” said Bolle, who is seen dancing on the beach and warmly embracing a fresh-faced Jenner in the video. “These are fragments of Italian inspiration and we want to show the Italian style in the world.  It’s a joyful campaign and I think this

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NEW DELHI, India — Sabyasachi Mukherjee has achieved many milestones over the last decade, but 2017 was exceptional — and he has even more planned for this year.
In addition to global collaborations with brands and retailers including Christian Louboutin, Pottery Barn and Lane Crawford in the last nine months, Sabyasachi launched a jewelry line and broke the mold with a new flagship in New Delhi. The 13,500-square-foot store with 57 chandeliers, 112 carpets and more than 300 pieces of art brought in a series of unique concepts in fashion retail. His Kolkata store was relaunched in November.
The Kolkota-based designer’s shows are studded with Bollywood celebrities who swear by him, yet he inspired regular women to return to a “Sabyasachi style” simplicity, which was almost severe in its approach, with a focus on textiles. “I admire the woman who has the guts to come out without heels, and simply be herself,” he said.
Describing himself simply as a “recluse,” and stating matter-of-factly, “I am first a businessman,” Sabyasachi spoke with WWD about his success, the evolving market and the changing Indian consumer.
WWD: As 2018 begins, is it time to take a breath after the numerous collaborations and launches in 2017?

Sabyasachi Mukherjee: At a

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